Why Step Cuts are Used in Jewelry

Step Cuts
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Antiques & Jewelry

A gem’s cut influences its shape and the manner in which it will sparkle when set. Many people are familiar with the oval or round shaped stones with facets that glimmer, but a lesser known stone cut that is stylish and striking is the step cut, which has increased in popularity.

What are Step Cuts?

The step cut usually produces a rectangular shape that is longer than ovals or rounds, with a series of steps which resembles a Mesoamerican pyramid. The preferred gems for this cutting style include diamonds and emeralds. The gem will be sliced with square or rectangular facets which extend from the stone’s face. Emerald cuts in particular have extended facets which produce a fabulous effect called “flash,” while baguette diamonds use step cuts that may have edges which are tapered or straight.

Step Cut Characteristics

The step cut can be further broken down into four categories, which are asscher, carre, emerald and baguette:

  • Asscher: Named in honor of the Asscher siblings, these gem cuts tend to resemble princess cuts from a distance, which is the result of the square shape, but on closer inspection they use distinct steps which extend from their corners to a center culet, which generates the sparkle.
  • Carre: Carre gems are somewhat rare, and are mostly requested by true connoisseurs. The facets within the carre cut as well as its square shape give the stone an appearance which resembles a pyramid, especially when seen from above.
  • Emerald: This is the most popular step cut for emeralds, as it gives them a regal look which is sought after by celebrities, heads of state and royalty. It uses a rectangle that has eight sides with corners that are clipped, producing miniature edges. Its elongated and rectangular facets produce a stunning effect called house of mirrors.
  • Baguette: Though asscher and emerald diamonds display soft corners, the baguette is distinctive for its sharper edges which are more pronounced. It too has a rectangular shape, but its step cuts produce a baguette which doesn’t generate as much sparkle, though it will reflect a great deal of light with an effect that resembles a hologram. For this reason it is often used as a side stone within engagement rings, especially those that consist of three gems.

Advantages of Step Cuts

Step cuts are often compared to brilliant cuts, as there are a number of similarities. However, the main difference is the level of sparkle. The brilliant cut, which is primarily used in diamonds, will generate maximum sparkle since it has greater facets, which are either kite or triangular shaped, resulting in a fiery brilliance. This is because the facts will bounce around any light that touches the stone.

The step cut has been popularized by celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Kate Middleton, who both wore emerald cut rings. Their sleek appearance will especially appeal to those that love vintage jewelry and anything minimalist. Aside from that, this style of cut will preserve a greater portion of the rougher gem’s carat weight.