Jewelry Spotlight: Lacquer

Jewelry Spotlight Lacquer
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Antiques & Jewelry

Lacquer is a hard and shiny finish which is applied to a variety of materials including metal and wood. It originates in Asia where objects are coated with the dried, treated and dyed sap of the lacquer tree. It can also be used to produce fabulous jewelry.

This material has been manufactured for more than a thousand years in East and South Asia, but only recently have many in the West become familiar with it. Lacquer was most famously used in the armor worn by eastern and Central Asian warriors, especially the Mongols, Xiongnu and Huns. The finish has a number of advantages, such as being waterproof, extremely tough, and pleasant to look at. Asian lacquer will often be painted with images that may be inlaid with shells or gold dusted.

Lac Jewelry

The art of producing lac jewelry originates in Rajasthan, a region of India. The jewelry can be purchased from shops in a variety of unique designs, especially the bangles, which appear in bright glass and color and which may be worn with different attire. It is believed by the locals that these bangles bring good fortune to those who adorn them, and their popularity has extended to other parts of the subcontinent and beyond.

Thanks to technological advances and the internet, a growing number of people around the world have become aware of this jewelry and it is increasingly being shipped outside the country. This greater demand has also spawned innovation within the jewelry making process itself. The traditional technique used to produce lacquer jewelry is both complex and time consuming. The bangles are usually comprised of an interior core which has a thin layer lacquer covering.

How The Jewelry Is Made

Core lacquer must be combined with material like white clay, which is responsible for making the jewelry prettier and stronger. Jewelry makers must knead, heat, hammer and mix the parched components which has to be done repeatedly until dough like mass is created. While lacquer jewelry is designed for traditional Indian clothes, people in other parts of the world are increasingly using it for their earrings, bracelets and necklaces.

After the dough mass has been heated and further shaped, the lacquer will expand into a specific diameter. A special flat tool will be used for rolling the bangle along a flat surface which will produce the desired thickness. The shaping is accomplished through suppressing the length of the lacquer into grooves for each side of its mold. The lacquer will eventually take on the shape that it is forced into.

As you can imagine, this process requires tremendous precision to produce the correct results. There are a variety of Indian manufacturers who export their merchandise overseas, and some of it is handmade or fully customized. However, due to increased demand, jewelers are developing faster, more efficient production methods that can bring these wonderful products to a larger global audience at a more attractive price point.