Why Briolette Cuts are Used in Jewelry

Briolette Cuts
by: Ben Tseytlin - on Antiques & Jewelry

The briolette consists of a vintage cut which appears in the form of a teardrop which is faceted. It might also resemble a doubled rose or roundish pear, and below are some reasons why it is commonly used in jewelry making.

What is Briolette?

Briolette is a type of gem cut that first emerged nearly a thousand years ago. It is considered one of the most challenging gem cuts and thus requires the attention of a master jeweler, but the end result is absolutely stunning thanks to the extensive facets that are utilized  at every angle. It is also one of the few cuts which display facets in a roundish way.

Briolette cut gems will often feature facets that are elongated and either hexagonal or triangular. A lot of jewelers like applying this cut to gemstones that are naturally pear or oval shaped, and the most popular types used for this purpose are sapphire, topaz, citrine, rubies and amethyst. Diamonds are also sought after due to their exceptional hardness.

To determine whether or not a gem is suitable for the briolette cut, there are a number of factors which must be considered. Aside from its shape, which is preferably oval or round, the gem must be sturdy so that it may handle being exposed to environmental stressors without requiring a secured jewelry setting. Additionally, bigger gems are preferable to smaller ones, and since larger gems are rare and expensive by their very nature, this cut is not used often.

Briolette Cut Characteristics

This style of gem cutting is also rare due to its difficulty as well as the time and labor needed to create it. Once completed, the gem will reflect and bend light like no other, but such specimens will sell at much higher prices than more conventional cuts. Another advantage is that when cut correctly with a durable stone like diamond, a Briolette can greatly withstand wear. Unlike other gem cuts, a briolette is completely spherical which means it has no flat sides. This makes it incredibly brilliant when compared to other gems.

Because of its rarity and the challenge involved in its creation, briolette cuts are among the most expensive that can be used on a gem. When applied to a precious stone, you can expect to pay a price which extends into the upper five figures. However, this cut is not suitable for certain types of jewelry such as rings or any which depend on a setting which is secured. Rather, it is best applied to necklaces or earrings.

It must also be emphasized that briolette cut gems should never be worn on a daily basis or with casual wear. The reason is because gemstones which feature it have a greater likelihood of sustaining wear, so should only be worn on special occasions such as the holidays, birthdays, and weddings. Briolette cuts were very popular during medieval times when they were applied to gems given to nobles and royalty. One of the most famous examples is a necklace which Napoleon Bonaparte gave to his wife Marie Louise which had 10 diamonds with a Briolette cut.